Mostar-Sarajevo-Travnik-Plitvice Lakes-Zadar/Sali

Yes, I made it through the night in the museum. I slept very well, had a nice breakfast, then went to the train station. It was like going with Mr. Clean to a place that could use Mr. Clean. The train itself was fine, like being on the train in a Harry Potter movie with the aise on one side and the six passenger compartments on the other. The views were phenomenal and well worth the mention in Lonely Planet. Undescribable. Don't know why we dont't heard about the mountains in Croaia and Bosnia-Hercegovania. They are well worth the trip. I met Sarajevo in the rain. Along with the history of it being the spark that ignited World War I, it also is living with the recent war from 1992 - 1995. There is much love of Bill Clinton there--for, as they say, stopping the war in 10 days. I stayed in a room that one could consider their grandmother's house. The elderly woman was very kind. It was interesting looking through some of her stuff she left in the room. Pictures of here at a younger age with her son, and some more recent ones with a grandson.

While the tunnel at the airport interested me, I made my way to Travnik, a small mountain village with a restored palace, at least on the outside. It amazes me how they know how to recontruct something they've never seen. However it's done, I does take one back in time even if there's nothing inside. The town was not geared to tourists, which was nice, but also left me with having to find out things on my own. Lonely Planet's recommended restaurant was closed for the week so I had a meager meal in town, of what I'm calling hamburger fingers. There's a lot of beef served here. I'lll be craving a cesear salad when I get home.

One never knows where one might end up at the end of the day upon awakening. I was headed for Jajce, but the accommodations were full, it being a Friday I guess, so it was on the Bihač, which didn't look to appealing. I took the next bus headed for Zagreb, one of the more local buses, so it was packed. I shared a seat with a Bosnian first, then a Spanaird who had been to a training regarding culture in the EU, even though Bosnia isn't part of it yet. Antonio and I had a very nice chat until I got off on the side of the road near Plitvice Lakes. I can finally pronounce it--Pleet-veet-say, with emphasis on the first syllable. Where to stay? The small info center sent me to the autocamp, which had rooms, but not for a single person. Up the road was a wonderful ˝sobe˝, with a kitten and 5 puppies, so I was happy. Happy until the next day, the buses didn't stop to take me to the part entrance. I packed my bags, finally got a bus to pick me up and looked for another sobe at the entrance to the park. After waking up with anticipation of seeing the park at 6 a.m., it was noon before I got there, me and about 10,000 other people.

The park is wonderful, waterfalls everywhere, carved out limestone continually changing. No swimming or boating here. Everything is prestine. I stayed for 2 days, the second going on less used trails, so less used that I saw a bear. Then I ran into a man who I'd passed before I saw a bear, and he was camped out waiting to find one. After all the kilometers hećd hiked, I was sorry he passed up the one I'd seen.

More later about a Croatian wedding.