Interlude in the BVIs

Am I on vacation? It seems like it in a way, yet I’m preparing for my next experience. Having just turned 55 (oh, I still can’t believe it), I’m going to be an intern. How many 55-year old interns do you know? Not too many I’m assuming. Starting the first of April, I’ll be interning at Sail Caribbean Divers in Hodges Creek on Tortola, BVI. They’ve been looking out for me already—providing an efficiency apartment two weeks early and allowing me to dive all I want before I start my internship. How kind is that? I’m getting to know the staff and current interns, have met my mentor, have been invited to go sailing with one of the staff this week, and plan to go to hear some of the staff play at a gig this weekend. Some of the staff are sailors and I’ve just heard about Friday night racing, so I’ll be checking that out this week. I might not be able do this again as I probably will be working.

I cleared off Timeless Passage last Wednesday, moved into my efficiency apartment with all the leftover groceries from the boat, then checked into the dive shop where I learned I was now illegally in the country. The boat captain had checked me into the BVIs for one day, not eight or 30, but one, meaning I was already a week overdue to leave the country. I delayed dealing with this for a day since I wanted to enjoy the next day, being it was my 55th birthday, and I’m glad I did. Immigration does not tolerate illegal immigrants, so I was off to St. Thomas, part of the US Virgin Islands the next day. An hour ferry ride over, a few hours wandering around its capital, Charlotte Amalie and back again, and I’m now legal until April 15.

I chose to dive the RMS Rhone, both bow and stern, on my birthday. The Rhone is the most famous dive site in the BVIs, having sunk in a hurricane in 1867. She was a fast, sleek sail and steam engine driven 310’ iron boat in the service of delivering mail, cargo and passengers between England and the West Indies and South America. There are various stories about the sinking of the Rhone. What seems to be closest to the truth is that a late season hurricane hit the BVIs on 29 Oct. 1867. The Rhone and the Conway were anchored at the mouth of Great Harbour, Peter Island. Their respective captains, Captain Wooley and Captain Hammock surmised the brewing storm was merely an early winter storm since hurricane season was thought to be over. Though hindsight shows that it would have been best to stay put, they decided to move passengers to the more stable Rhone, weigh anchor and head for the sheltered anchorage of Road Harbour. The Rhone’s anchor snagged, so Captain Wooley cut his 3000-pound chain and anchor. Now anchorless, he headed out to open sea now in the second half and stronger part of the hurricane. She was bashed against the rocks on the western tip of Salt Island and cut in half by the knife like edge of Black Rock Point. The cool Caribbean salt water combined with the heat of the steam engine caused a massive explosion killing all but 22 people.

Life is good now. I’ve been diving every day, running (actually walking) errands and relaxing in the rest of the day—catching up on emails and my blog, reading some, doing Sudoku, etc. Now I’m ready to start studying—chemistry, physics, physiology. Yes, there is a lot more to diving that I want to understand in order to be a good instructor. With that said, it’s time to stop procrastinating and hit the books.