Patagonia Presence, or maybe Presents

Patagonia is everything you´ve heard about and more. I´ve just spend the past fortnight exploring Torres del Paine in and around the parque nacional. Torres del Paine is awe-inspiring to say the least. I´ve climbed mountains before: the base of Everest, Machu Pichu, Kilimanjaro, and this pulls me more to it than any others. Maybe it´s because it reminds me of the landscape in Cappadochia in Turkey, with this being on a much larger scale, probably more likely it´s because of its spiritualness to me. These mountains are of course millions of years old, being at one time connected to Gondwanna, which connected South America to Antarctica, Austrailia, India, and Africa. To have been to Antarctica, then coming here, might have something to do with feeling so connected to this mountain.

I´ve been traveling with a 31-year old woman from the Antarctic cruise. She´s been a god-send for several reasons. One, as a traveling companion. Two, she's a well-seasoned camper and has camping gear. Three, she´s fluent in Spanish. We enabled each other to hike the "W" in Torres del Paine. Neither of us would have done it on our own. The "W" is one of the main treks through the nacional parque, though one might not be aware of this given the narrowness of the trails and the relatively few number of people encountered along the way. The other is the "O", which circles the Torre del Paine, but I´ve heard is not as spectacular.

Sarah and I met up in Puerto Natales late one evening several days after our cruise, each having made our way north separately. We left by bus the next afternoon after scurrying to provision food, get sleeping bag for me, and take in a traveling Chilean folk presentation to the mayor of Punta Natales. It was very rushed, yet we made the bus with all of our bundles, with 2.5 hours to absorb what we were about to do.

We soon learned that mornings are generally rainy, so we got a late start for hiking the next morning, with me not looking forward to getting out of a wet tent and face wet and muddy camping showers. But alas, the $10 little cook stove Sarah bought, along with backpack and tent in Puerto Arenas cooked us a hot breakfast. We had camped at the right most bottom point of the "W" and hiked the right arm on day one. Day two consisted of us breaking down camp and hiking to the next refugio, i.e. bunkhouse with warm food for me, camping for Sarah. The hike was somewhat treacherous. We actually had to cross a river by foot, along with many smaller streams, so by the time we got to the refugio, our boots were soaked. It took us twice as long to hike the trails than what was indicated on the maps, so we were factoring that in given the weight we were carrying in our packs, and bodies (the additional weight we´d each loaded on while on the cruise).

Rain again in the morning, so another late start, and another grueling day of hiking, but only four or five hours. We decided to chill out at Camp Italiano at the base of the "W" and hike the middle Valle del Frances early the next day without our packs. What a good decision. The next camp was barren, and the hike would have been difficult with a heavy load, and may have taken away from the splendor of being in the middle of the valley of these glorious mountains. I sat at the mirador meditating, taking in all the inspiration these mountains could pour into me. I felt like the universe was bestowing a blessing on me of which I hope I am worthy. Words to describe the view, as well as pictures, cannot do justice to the scenery here.

The trek down the valley alongside the glacial river was a dream, almost as if we were floating. Of course, without our packs on, we did feel more agile going down the boulders and scree. We quickly tore down camp and trekked another three hours to Paine Grande. We stayed here two nights, one in the refugio for me, and the other camping with Sarah. This was luxury, and where we saw the first families hiking, probably because this left bottom portion of the "W" was accessible by ferry along Lago Nordenskjold, which basically underlines the "W", along with Lago Pehoe to its south. We took a day off from trekking, taking time to read, journal, enjoy the scenery, and take a short hike in search of the Hooded Grebe, which we later learned from the parque rangers is only in Argentina.

The next day, still being leisurely, we left around noon for an eight hour trek to finish off the left leg of the "W". We took in several Glaciars this day, with the largest being Glaciar Grey. Other hikers had excitedly told us about the huge icebergs we were soon to encounter, not realizing we´d been to Antarctica. There was some nice blue shading in these glaciars to make us recall the sites we´d seen three weeks before. Having lingered in conersations with fellow hikers, taken pictures along the way, stopping to admire flowers amidst the rocks, we didn´t reach the left tip of the "W" until early evening. Forgetting our girlscout ways, and leaving the headlamps behind, I was now worried about getting back to camp before dark, so we turned around without renourishing ourselves for the four hour trek back. This time we made it within the map´s estimates and before dark, which here is around 10 p.m.

Alas, we´d completed the "W", but were still thirstly for more. We´d heard about horse riding in the park, along the right side of the "W", so explored that the next day. The following day, we were able to arrange a three-day ride south of the parque. So three days after hiking, we were on horseback, exercising different body muscles. Riding alongside Rio Serrano, we took in several glaciars: Tyndall, Chacabuco, Serrrano, an Balmaceda along with several lagos: Brush and del Jote. We camped at private sites which left one wonder about living conditions here, ate meat that had been freshly butchered before we left, but had not been refrigerated, and drank boilded water from the streams. I´ve not had to use my cipro yet, knock on wood.

We chose to do the trail from a family owned and operated ranch. The horses were well fed, well trained and knew the muddy, rocky, slippery trails. They couldn´t keep us safe from all the low hanging branchs (that´s why were thankfully wore helmuts) and those that protuded from each side, but they negotiated the trails expertly. Seis, my horse, was the biggest of the lot, with shoulders taller than my head, which made mounting him very difficult. There were several spots where we had to get off and lead the horses across particularly muddy or rocky paths so the guide then had to figure in time to get us to a spot with an elevated place for us to remount our steads. We chose his footing well, though obstinate the first day, making sure I knew who was in command. Given that the pack horse was sometimes in the lead, I knew I didn´t have to do much, other than make sure I stayed in the saddle. These Chilean saddles are great--with hand-holds in front and behind, no horn, and fit like a glove. Trotting and galloping became almost second nature, though, when near the end of the last day, close to home, my horse wanted to imitate the dogs rolling in the dirt, forgetting I was on his back. Glad I was spontaneous about getting my foot out of that stirrup. (This was sometimes difficult given I was using hiking boots, not riding boots.) Alas, Seis, given a gallant gallop back to the stables, didn´t seem to want to leave me at the end, though he proved very camera shy.

We´re off the Puerto Natales today, then I start heading north to Bariloche via El Calafate/Glaciar Moranes and El Chalten. I´ve heard that area is spectacular. It will have to prove itself after seeing Torres del Paine.