Casual Observations in Córdoba

This week I thought I’d just list some of my observations. These tend to depict some of the differences of living here versus in the Twin Cities. To start off, I’ve included a picture I haven’t even seen myself. It was taken by my roommate, Isabela, as she was coming home last night in the rain. How many times have you seen a garage door open as if an alligator was going to come out and eat you alive, and then you drive into it?

As for the rain, there’s no way for me to really show the extremes in Argentina, you have to live here to really experience them. Just imagine our street turning into a river, barely kept to its course by the curbs. To give you an idea of how much it has rained here this summer, the river that runs through the city has been rising. Even the locals say these frequent rains are not common in the Summer. We’ve all heard people say how fast their local weather changes. I’ve never seen weather change so fast. When I came home from class last night around 7:30, it was sunny. Within an hour, the skies darkened, the wind pick up, and sheets of water were pelting our house. Some of my classmates came home drenched, or “souped” as the Argentineans would say. (The French say “sauced”.) Luckily, the husband on one of the employee’s here arrived on his motorcycle just as it was beginning to rain. Instead of picking up his wife, he maneuvered the motorcycle through our gate for cover before the real torrents of water blew in. Within half an hour, the sun was out again.

Here’s my list of oddities:
• Bags of trash hung from trees, in “high-rise cradles”, on the sidewalk, wherever. Trash pick-up is nightly so people put their trash out any time, even just before it storms. Though there are trash containers throughout the city, people routinely throw small odds and ends on the sidewalk. And as there are many smokers here, cigarette butts are everywhere.
• Two-wheel trailers pulled by horses, bicycles or people. These are the only horses allowed in the city. Horses are against city ordinance, but because they are crucial to the recycling program in Córdoba, officials look the other way. The enterprising, though less-than-fortunate people go through the trash to pull out cardboard, plastic, glass, and other recyclable items. There is some sorting by residents and companies to make this process a bit easier.
• Square pull-apart biscuits. We had these at our summer camp, and I’ve seen these in the kiosks and bakeries. At the summer camp, it seemed they were either stored in, or purchased in bags that looked like dry dog food bags, but even bigger. Wonder what they’re made of? They didn’t taste like dog food.
• As for dogs, lots of them. More dogs than cats. Lots of vets too, but they must not de-sex the dogs here, as in many other countries. Dogs don’t pester people, they lie down anywhere, even in the middle of busy sidewalks, but once we get their attention, do seem to want affection and may jump up on you. Otherwise, they mind their own business.
• Blue lights. These actually represent security in neighborhood. A car with a flashing blue light drives around, shining a light into the houses, sometimes stopping for more careful observation. I was home alone one night when the security car stopped in front of our house for about 10 minutes. It was beginning to scare me, making me feel like a criminal. What would I say if he came to the door? I’d already thought to call the manager of the local organization I’m here with. This reminds me, a bit later torrents of rain and wind descended yet again making me glad the manager had dissuaded me from going to Cosquin for a rock festival with the other housemates. When I came back from horseback riding the following day their wet clothes, sleeping bags, etc. were everywhere. I was glad I’d slept in a nice dry bed that night, rather than a cold wet tent.
• Green remis and taxis. Remis must be called, and charge a little more. I haven’t seen that they’re any cleaner or any other difference.
• Different tiled sidewalks. Property ownership must extend to the sidewalks because the surface changes by house or storefront. There’s all kinds of tile, from large to small, smooth (treacherous in the rain) to lined, to those with circles like the grey rubber tiles that were used for a while in the states. Jack Nicholson would have gone crazy here (his character from the movie with
• Shuttered storefronts. Shops outside city center close down during afternoon making parts of the city look very desolate. It must be siesta time. Many churches and some museums also close in the afternoon. Restaurants stay open longer, but then close until 8:00 or 9:00 at night. Bars are open most of the day. This is a college town after all.
• Casual dress. I’ve seen a few suits and ties, one woman with pantyhose on, but for the most part, dress seems casual. Maybe that’s because it’s so hot here in the summer. I see lots of jeans though don’t know how anyone stands it. Shorts are “modern” and are rarely seen on women in the city center. There are all kinds of pants that go just below the knee, some hugging the leg, others with ties, and others loose. I’ve opened the zippers on safari type pants at the “shorts” line as well as the boots zipper to just barely survive the heat here, but for the most part, I’ve worn skorts.

I’m going to see if I can rouse the rest of the bunch for our trip to the Sierras. If we don’t head out shortly, I guess I’ll see our tango instructor dance in Plaza San Martín instead.