HCMC and the Mekong Delta

My entry into Vietnam wasn't my smartest move. Given I'd been traveling all fall, and only had two days at home to prepare for 2 months in Indonesia and Vietnam I forgot that I'd put off arranging for a Vietnamese visa that I figured I could do in my spare time in Indonsia. Good thing I read that dollars are popular in Vietnam so I had enough for the 15-day "emergency" visa. The officials were saying how expensive it would be, suggesting I should get on a flight back to Kuala Lampur. I wonder how expensive that would have been. As if that wasn't enough, my dive gear didn't arrive, making me very happy I decided not to check my other bag. I've realized worrying about such things doesn't help any, so I didn't worry, and there it was at my hotel,the next morning.  No matter, I had to leave it at the hotel anyway rather than take it to the Mekong Delta.

I thought I was leaving the congestion and horn-honking behind as the tour van departed HCMC but it accompanied us the whole way. I along with three others from Brazil were excited about seeing the delta and staying with a family overnight. Our first stop was to get into a hollowed out boat and glide along the Mekong River and then push our way through a tributary. The scenery here is so lush, and the river made me think of the muddy Mississippi, especially when we were maneuvering our way through the tributary, where the oarsman went to the bow to pull us through the narrow channel, and the rest of us fending us off the sides.

We meet our family at the Homestay near Vinh Long and took off for a meandering bike ride, first going over a rickety bridge to take a small ferry across one of many canals, then continued on the narrow paths along the canals that are everywhere. We shared the paths with motorbikes, taking care not to fall off the paths. Fields of rice and other vegetation blanket the scenery. Small kiosks along the way make living along the delta manageable.

We helped,make dinner. First was the appetizer--small disks of batter were cooked on a habatchi-type grill, each one with a shrimp placed in the middle. We then wrapped it with a leaf, dipped it in fish sauce and ate many they were so good. Since the family raises fish, that was our main course, along with sweet potatoes and cooked greens. Watermelon was dessert.  All was very yummy.

Early the next morning we went on a larger tour boat to see the floating market where wholesale and retail selling was done. The wooden boats look ancient, and well-used. We climbed on one to have some fresh cut pineapple, and not unexpectedly, saw the skins being tossed into the  river, along with banana peels, plastics and what not. It will take major reforms to clean up the river and change people's habits regarding littering.

I stayed in Can Tho for New Year's Eve, walking the riverfront, getting lost, finding help in a young girl who held my arm as we crossed streets and wasn't sure she should leave me on my own, but she did and I made it back to my hotel safely. No fireworks here due to a poor economy. I understand there will be no fireworks for the Lunar New Year which is the real celebration here. New Year's Day seemed like a normal day, with the local buses running as usual. One took me to Vinh Long, where taxi drivers jumped on the bus, making me think Mr. Pho had arranged for one to pick me up there, but I fended them off. Getting directions to the ferry was confusing, being pointed in opposite directions so it was a relief when a motorbike stopped and the driver spoke some English. He took me to the ferry, didn't overcharge me, and even called Mr. Pho.

My ride awaited me on the other side of the river, Mr. Pho's cousin. Oh, to be away from the chaos of the city and the quiet of another homestaynwas welcomed. The home stays were originally staying in a home. They now are simple blocks of basic rooms with showers and toilets outside the rooms. I went for a long bike ride, stopping to check out the fighting cocks that are separated in wicker baskets, and just to people watch.  The next day I sat on a motor cycle, traveling along country roads to see some pagodas and the French tree-lone village of Tra Vinh. We saw rice paper being made, bonsai trees being shaped, pagodas under construction and I got to sample some local ice cream from a bicycle vendor with a bell. The whole day cost 500,00vnd, the equivalent of less than $25.