Beginnings in India

India, a country high on my bucket list, and the country that my nephew Justin chose as the developing country he wanted to visit for his college graduation gift from me. Lucky me! I met up with him in Boston, where we celebrated Christmas with the Wulfpack, and on to India.

By the time we got through customs and immigration, it was early Thursday morning. Caper Travel was there to meet us and take us to our hotel. Being the middle of the night, it was quiet, making it an easy entry for someone who hasn't travelled outside the US much. Still Justin was intimidated by the sites and traffic, and the the driver’s uncertainty of our hotel's location.

Ashuni, our guide, called promptly at 9am for our day of touring Delhi. Off we went, learning that age and education mark differences between New Delhi and old Delhi. New Delhi being only 100 years old and more educated than 500 year old Delhi. 18 people live in the state of Delhi--82% Hindu, 12% Muslin, and 6% Buddhist, Christian or some other sect. 1600 languages are spoken here, three noted on street signs in Delhi.

Jamir Masjid, the largest mosque in India, was our first stop. Built in 1606 A.H. by the Hindu calendar, it offers space for 20,000 worshippers and lots of well-fed pigeons within the open air space and red sandstone walls. Outside is the Chandi Chowk outdoor market similar to Thamel in Nepal. Having arrived early, we took a rickshaw ride throughout the narrow streets, conscious of the building traffic as more shops opened for the throngs of arriving tourists.

Old Delhi was rebuilt eight times, most recently by the Mughals, a family that reigned for 400 years before the British took over. Mughals built the Red Fort and several gates throughout the city. Humayun's Tomb is a memorial to the second Mughal by his second wife, and a precursor to the Taj Mahal. It is a mixture of Muslim and Persian art in a beautiful landscape adorned by peepal and neem trees.

Raj Ghat, south of the Red Fort, marks where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. The raised black marble platform is symbolic of the simplicity of his life, and the chanted prayers within the serene setting made us think about his lifelong striving for worldwide peace.

India Gate, a beached red sandstone structure, commemorates the 90,000 Indian lives that were lost in WWI. 20,000 names are etched in walls as are American memorials in Washington D.C. Opposite India Gate is the presidential palace, flanked by Secretarial buildings housing the Army (which includes the Army, Air Force and Navy). Along the street connecting them, is Rajpath, where the president (currently a female) gives her state of the union address on 26 January.

Amongst all this is the smog which greeted us the inside of the airport. The horns were honking, the bikes, rickshaws, motorcycles, cars, vans, buses all crowd the streets, which slow down at the "speed breakers". Yet the smells of Indian food are heavenly, and much to my surprise, Justin is adventurous when it comes to eating, so all my worries about him starving himself were for naught. And if that wasn't enough for our first day, we heard Sufis singing quwwali last night after their evening prayers outside a very crowded Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah. What a nice ending to our first day in India. And, we went to bed without dinner, being too tired to eat.